An Affectionate Glimpse of the Real Thailand

Discovering Issan

Issan is in North Eastern Thailand and comprises Thailand.s largest and poorest Region. Issan,s 22 million inhabitants are predominately descended from Grandparents who were not Thai but Lao.In the 18th and 19th Centuries more powerful Thailand (Siam)fought numerous wars with Lao during which the now Lao Capital Vientiane was so completely destroyed that some thirty Years later all a French explorer could find were some ruins in the jungle.The most significant legacy of Anouvong's (The then Lao King) Lao Rebellion was the impact of the forced population transfers throughout the region. As a consequence of the warfare and population transfers of the eighteenth and nineteenth centuries, there are now over 19 million ethnic Lao living in the Issan region of Thailand, while only 6 million live in the independent country of Laos. During the French colonial period, Vientiane was rebuilt as the Laotian capital in a deliberate attempt to win favour and to demonstrate French authority.

These Lao Thais are now part of a rapidly modernising Thailand, although in their homes they speak a dialect which is essentially Lao (Lao and Thai are very similar Languages and all Thais will understand what is being said when they visit Lao). The Issan Lao/Thais have a fairly relaxed attitude to life and seldom appear to expend a lot of energy, in fact during the French Colonial times it was said of the Peoples of the Countries that France had annexed that the Vietnamese planted the rice,the Cambodians harvested it and the Lao listened to it growing!

Lovely little river on the Tanon Luk Lang

I have lived in one of Issans biggest Towns Udon Thani for coming up to 10 Years.I have explored some of Thailand by motorcycle and car, and also visited several of the neighbouring Countries. Around three Years ago I bought a Mountain bike and had a wonderful three Month Trip through Lao,Vietnam and Cambodia!!I loved my cycle tour although the Mountains in Lao and North Vietnam were a challenge, Issan is very flat so the Mountains came as a shock to this fair weather cyclists and on all but the gentlest of inclines it was a case of getting off and pushing!!

I go for a bike ride every Morning and some 4/5 Months ago I started riding to a small Village in the Thai Countryside, a round trip of some 31 Kilometres. This Village is like thousands of similar villages where in fact the Majority of Issans population live Upon arrival I go to a scruffy little shop and buy a cold drink.The shopkeeper Family and a number of the regular customers have got to know this nutty cyclist who pedals out through the blazing sun every Day.

My favourite cycling is on the "Tanon Luk Lang" small dirt roads which link up many of the small Villages. I think that this is where one finds the real Thailand. I,m sure that many of the small shacks where Farmers live have not changed much for generations the only difference Today being electrictricity and a small motorcycle or beaten up Pick up outside.

Many of the country Thais are poor, not dirt poor or derelict but they have little money.Some of the bigger farmers own land which is obviously valuable but unless they sell it does not put cash in their pockets.

These rural dwellers have caught, grown or foraged for the majority of their food for generations and many still do. Thais in fact eat a huge variety of stuff some of which I would find pretty unpalatable, but all of which is nutritious. In past times most had no money at  all but it is quite possible to literaly live off the land. A benign climate where the rice is planted during the rainy season and all manner of vegetables grown.Fish in abundance, insects are enjoyed along with any birds or animal which can be trapped, snake, frog and field rats are a huge treat!!

This little shack looks like a strong wind would blow it away

The Sisters in the above video are lovely friendly Ladies. I was not aware until the day after I met them that they live next door to the shop where I have made my headquarters and are in fact relatives of the shopkeeper Family.Next day in the shop the Family had quite a large bag filled with the little tubers one of the Sisters was digging for and described as Thai potatoes, these are all part of a healthy diet ( One does not see many severely overweight people in the Villages!!)